Series: Iceland North to South

This entry is part 1 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 28 miles

It’s overcast and gloomy as I wake up in Akureyri but I commit to not worry about the weather, at least until I start the actual hiking. I still need to get to the starting point and that is a few hours bus ride away. This is Iceland and the most mundane bus trip is a spectacular event so I sit back and relax.

Leirhofn to Asbyrgi

This entry is part 2 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 29 miles

Day 2 is typically a tough one in fastpacking trips with no quarter. It is the day when the body is already beaten by the previous day’s effort but not yet used to the constant beating of a thru-hike. I can’t take it easy though. If I mean to cross Iceland in 13 days, I can’t just take it easy, not even for one day, not even for day 2.

Asbyrgi to Dettifoss road

This entry is part 3 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 28 miles

It starts overcast and windy, at least the wind will be on my back. The other good news is that I’ll be on a real hiking trail today. A rare, welcome event, I won’t find another such trail until the final 2 days of the trip. I also know this trail is easy to follow, not only from reports but from previous, own experience, and this is the other, funny part: I was hiking on this trail 16 years back, no less. Back then, the same northerlies as expected today left me dripping wet and cold to the point that I bailed out mid-way. I’m here now to fill that gap.

Dettifoss road to Myvatn

In Trips, Iceland

This entry is part 4 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 25 miles

I’m happy to face one final road walk today. The wimp in me got scared yesterday and I’m fine with that middle ground in not giving up but taking the less compromising route. It won’t be a memorable journey but I’ll be worry free no matter the weather. Real wilderness will need to wait a bit longer.

Myvatn to Botni

This entry is part 5 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 30 miles

I set out in death-march mood. The sky is severely overcast but at least it’s not raining yet. This is a big help for a start.

Dark day in Myvatn

Botni to Odadahraun (middle of nowhere)

This entry is part 6 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 28 miles

The problem with staying in such a nice hut is that it’s difficult to leave but I have that one clear, early wake-up call and no room for doubt. The weather seems to resume where it left it the day before which is not that bad of a news. It is demanding weather to be outside but far from my fear induced nightmare dreams. It is cloudy, windy, cold and generally unsettled but it is not raining consistently and there are even occasional spells of brightness.

Odadahraun (Somewhere in there) to Gaesavotn

This entry is part 7 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 32 miles

The weather is still mostly clear when I wake up in the morning. Where’s all that forecasted rain? I don’t want to know. I’m delighted to be able to feel relaxed and eager to start the day’s hiking, first time on this trip that I feel that way. At this stage, my first encounter with the outcome of sandy ground camping is nothing but a minor inconvenience. I’ll need to get used to this black sand all over the place. I feel for the tent but it’s its job after all.

Gaesavotn to Hagongulon

This entry is part 8 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 25 miles

I get my promised good weather window, it is calm and sunny in the morning. My first sunny day in Iceland 2016!!! Look at that blue sky:

Brilliant blue skies at last. Vatnajokull hides behind low cloud

Hagongulon to Storaver

In Trips, Iceland

This entry is part 9 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 30 miles

I’m now where I dreamt to be when I left Myvatn a long time ago (that’s 4 days). It’s been no death march to get here, in fact it was fairly quiet with some glorious times along the way. Now there’s no expected obstacles to get to the F26, once there I’m in relative safety no matter the weather. I feel less vulnerable. That means I’m less worried by an early morning overcast. Now I’ve got some miles to do.

Storaver to Krokslon

This entry is part 10 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 33 miles

Now that I’m fully aware of how important the weather still is, my first, early morning thought is for a sky update, pee and breakfast will come only later. It turns fairly quiet, cloudy but not overcast and it doesn’t rain. That’s good enough. Let’s go hiking.

Krokslon to Landmannalaugar

This entry is part 11 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 19 miles

The day starts dark and moody. Rain spares my packing up but that’s all the respite I get as it soon starts coming down. I’m in high ground so I can see far to south and west and all I see is dark cloud. I get mentally ready for a wet march to Landmannalaugar.

Landmannalaugar to Emstrur

On 2016-11-23

This entry is part 12 of 13 in the series Iceland North to South

Distance covered: 23 miles

You can get up as early as you want in the Iceland summer. I never got a precise account of what time the sun did rise but I think some “nights” I got to feel ambient light around 3 am before turning back to sleep. Most nights I’m on my own and don’t relate to anyone so it’s not obvious whether I got up early or not if I don’t look at the watch. Today I’m in a tent town that’s still quiet and still when I leave. It must be early even though we’re in full daylight. It’s clear and bright and I get ready for a memorable hiking day.

Emstrur to Skogar

On 2016-11-23