This entry is part 5 of 8 in the series Via Alpina 1
StartEngstlensee
EndWetterhorn foot
Distance33 km / 20 m
PassesNone

I’m glad I slept under tree cover, the Alps are a surprisingly damp place! but my shelter is mostly dry in the early morning and I didn’t need to compromise on views.

Dawn on the Engstlensee, Jochpass at the far end

I should have left camp with the first light of day. I should have actually done that everyday from stage 2 and I haven’t. It’s only now, at the dawn of stage 5 that I realize what this means: I’m not gonna make it to trail’s end in Montreaux.

I’m hiking nearly non-stop, no indulgences, no nothing but hike and I’m way behind the ideal schedule. I’m hiking until dusk, not beyond, something I’d do as an extra but not on a regular basis. If there’s anything I’m missing is an earlier wake-up call. I feel like I just can’t do it and somehow I don’t care.

I’ll keep the power-hiking up because that’s what I do but such not caring, together with the off-schedule can only mean one thing: I’m not gonna make it to trail’s end.

In between relax and resignation, I head for one of the allegedly most scenic sections of the Via Alpina 1, the Planplatten ridge. This is a high traverse above the Gental. From the Engstlensee, and instead of following the valley down, the route climbs slightly on the slopes closing the valley to the north to gain the ridge and stay right on top of it or very close. It certainly is scenic.

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From the Planplatten and for the first time in the trip, I have a view north to the Swiss Alps foothills and the plains beyond. It’s an odd feeling, it was like the Alps would have no end in any direction. It turns out they do.

The downside of the Planplatten is the cable car at the end of the ridge section. It brings loads of people, some of which I’ll meet hiking in the opposite direction, most hanging around the top station building. I’m partially relieved it’s a weekday in the middle of September.

The Planplatten ridge ends abruptly as it falls down to the next main valley. The view from up here is spectacular, with the flat valley floor, the Brienzersee beyond and the Wetterhorn massif to the west.

End of the ridge

Move a little forward and just behind the Wetterhorn the iconic north face of the Eiger can also be seen:

Grosse Scheidegg, the Wetterhorn and the Eiger behind

The climb down quickly turns into routine with the usual outcome: by the time I get to the valley floor I’m worn out beyond expectations. Then I remember my own thoughts from earlier in the morning about relax and resignation and decide to take a sort-of extended break in the outskirts of Meiringen where I find a park with grass, trees (i.e. shadow), drinking water and a stream to cool my feet off.

I’m now entering the most scenic and spoiled section of the Via Alpina 1.

Meiringen in the valley

Meiringen is rather big and super-touristy. It’s nice to see in the sense that it’s like being in a film. Other than that it has nothing for me and I just walk across and start climbing straight away on the other side of the valley to nice views of the village and the slopes I had just come down through.

Meiringen from the opposite side

After the initial climb from the valley floor, the trail levels as it enters a side valley, which is a welcome scenario in place of the typical series of steep walls to climb in the afternoon heat. The valley provides a gradual upward progression in a forested setting, never mind the road on the other side of the stream, as it approaches the foot of the Wetterhorn massif.

Into the mountains along the Reichenbach

There are several settlements along the way. Alp Rosenlaui lies right on the trail and it sells cheese in self-service fashion, outdoor fridge included:

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The narrow valley gets cold quick as the sun sets. This is mostly welcome, no heavy sweat today before camp. I plan to get as close as possible to Grosse Scheidegg, the upcoming pass, and find some grassy spot before the treeline. Grosse Scheidegg has a through road, albeit a minor, quiet one but I’d rather stay out of sight among trees. Then the trail brings me to this secluded meadow right at the base of the impressive north wall of the Wetterhorn.

The mighty Wetterhorn

I’ve still got half an hour left of decent daylight but for once I decide to put camp quality before further progress. This is gonna be the place.

Evening glow and fir tree cover in my most beautiful camp so far on this trip

Trailside Trailstar

There’s plenty of entertainment for that extra half hour. If admiring the Wetterhorn wall and the hanging glaciers wasn’t enough, I have fun collecting mushrooms in pics. They’re amazing creatures.

Colorful mushroom

Mushroom town

While I was already in my bag, I heard something unexpected: thunder! There was some minor cloud gathering during the evening but at no point did it look like a brewing storm.

At about 10 pm, it started raining, giving way to a 10 minute deluge with thunderbolt, lightning and strong wind. I couldn’t be happier that I was sheltered by fir trees and I had taken care of setting up on a slight rise! I kept awake while I monitored the water runoff around my floor print.

The storm eventually calmed down and I had a great night’s sleep in my nicest camp location of the whole trip.

Series Navigation<< Via Alpina 1 Stage 4: Brüsti to EngstlenseeVia Alpina 1 Stage 6: Wetterhorn to Lauterbrunnen >>