I’ve let the memories sink, then dug them out. This here below is what’s stuck after spending one month hiking the length of Norway where the country is at its narrowest.

Norge Midt

Linking steps for one month

This is about the great synergy in following a continuous path for an extended time, starting somewhere and ending some place else when it feels the latter is half a world away from the former.

There is something unique about this. On the most basic, it’s the old known feat about doing some actual travel so it’s not just walking around but actually going somewhere. Going deeper, there’s this beautiful idea about meeting the land as it is and facing the challenges. Show me what you have, I’ll make my way through it no matter what.

Scenario

My first working title for this section was the most obvious “Scenery” but as I developed the idea it changed to what you see now, a subtle but meaningful update. This trip was not as much about breathtaking views and more about a flow through the landscape, a scenario where stuff happened.

Borgefjell highlands, where stuff happened

This was a bit of a revelation to myself. I had always pictured Norway as the postcard-perfect hike and part of the idea for this trip was to challenge such cliché and see what would happen, which takes me to the next point below.

Less obvious Norway

It’s not all glacial valleys, rock walls or lake basins, Norway hiking can also get rather mundane and, guess what, it remains very attractive and interesting.

It was only my third hiking trip in this part of the world. Before this last, most of the going had been high latitude, high altitude or both. In the lower figures, there was a different world comprising stuff like conifer woods, birch woods, farming communities, endless moorland and way more water than the land can hold. It made for less spectacular, often tougher hiking but it felt for real. I loved visiting this other Norway.

Sylan region

Going off-trail

This is about meeting the place in its own terms, not only because of the obvious absence of a trail or any signaling to follow but also and mainly because of the limited availability of shelter infrastructure for extended periods. In a place like Norway, this changes everything.

Going off-trail is something I wouldn’t probably choose, given the chance but I was also intrigued by the prospect. Being parts of a set route, it helps for those of us unfamiliar with the region know that it’ll be walkable, which is pretty much the only basics I’d need to know, the rest is just the added challenge.

Hike through this

I spent about the second third of the trip going mostly off-trail. The eventual return to the trail network became my brightest beacon, something to fight for when the going was rough.

Sometimes the off-trail wouldn’t look like much different from the signed routes. Among all the factors that would shape the hiking experience, being off-grid was just one of them. In the right conditions (fair weather, firm ground, low vegetation, no obvious obstacles), it could be easy and enjoyable walking but it wasn’t gonna be that perfect for long, not in Norway. Adding the lack of trails, signage or shelters to the typical array of difficulties pushed the experience deep into the type-2 fun. It was challenging for me.

In retrospect, it was a highlight and I was happy it was an integral part of the trip.

Camping

It’s the pretty settings and the welcoming feeling about camping out being the natural thing to do. Finding home in the wilderness and being comfortable after the hard work.

Being native to a place where you take firm ground for granted, it’s always a bit of an initial shock, even if it’s not the first time, to hike and camp where everything seems to be a giant, endless marsh. You need to learn to read the land so you can find the best potential for good camping spots as you go. This is a great learning experience. Other than the obvious convenience, it’s a way of connecting with the land.

Finding dry ground

Hutting

I’m echoing myself here, see the Highlights section for previous trips in the region, but let me tell you (again) how important the shelter infrastructure is in a place like Norway. I’d say “for me” but I’ve met enough fellow hikers relieved to be inside to not feel alone in this.

Summer conditions are nice for hiking, the camping is wonderful and whatnot but there are times when I just needed to be inside, be it after a traumatic weather event or a simple accumulation of weight on my emotional shoulders. Come such time, the Norwegian hut system is the place to be and the simple knowing makes life plain nicer on the trail.

I went through some of my finest times on the trip sipping warm coffee by the fireplace. That’s a lot to say about an outbound experience.

Whatever by the fireplace

Type-2 fun at its best

Thru-hiking in Norway is tough, no surprises here, yet I’m doing it here again because I know I love the challenge, if only in retrospect.